This question was raised on our forum
Q. I'm new at using EPOXY and would like to know if anyone can tell me how to restrict where the EPOXY goes so that I don't have it on the portion of the body that you don't want EPOXY on when coating a fly body.
A.
Using epoxy at first can be quite difficult to master. You don’t mention in your post what style of fly that you are trying to epoxy so I will give you a few examples.
Trout Flies
If you epoxy thorax covers you will need to apply with a dubbing needle in small amounts and build the epoxy in layers. Whilst applying you will need to keep the fly as horizontal as possible in the vice and apply the epoxy in much smaller amounts that you need. Leave at least 10 minutes to dry before applying the next layer.
For epoxy buzzers you will have to once again apply a very thin coat and rotate the fly in the vice continually until the epoxy hardens. Personally I would not bother with epoxy buzzers but rather apply 3 coats of liquid glass or sally hansons hard as nails as this will give you the same finish without the grief.
Saltwater Flies
If you apply epoxy to a body of a saltwater fly such as a needle fish but do not want the epoxy to say go into the tail you need to start with the fly as horizontal as possible in the vice. Mix the epoxy and apply a thin layer to the body. I find plastic coffee stirrers that you will get in most fast food outlets the best as it applies the epoxy flatly. Where the body of the fly meets the tail leave a gap of a couple of millimetres to give the epoxy room to move. Again continually rotate the fly until dry.
General Tips
The hardest thing with epoxy to master is that you have to work quickly and sparingly. The slower you work the more likely that the epoxy will start to drip and once that starts it is better to just bin the fly and start again. You will need to rotate the fly continually whilst applying the epoxy to reduce the chance of dripping and until the fly dries. If you are going to do a few epoxy flies buy a stonefly dryer. As soon as the epoxy has been applied to the body place the fly straight onto the dryer and the rotating action will help give an even coat. Leave the fly in the dryer for at least half an hour as if you touch epoxy and it’s not fully set the fly is ruined. When mixing the epoxy make sure that both parts are fully mixed and try not to put bubbles into the epoxy. You can reduce the chance of bubbles by not moving the stirrer from the mixing paper. Lastly I also give all epoxy flies a coat of liquid glass as this prolongs the life of the fly as epoxy will yellow over time, the liquid glass helps stop this and gives a smoother finish.
Finally it is quite difficult to explain in words as epoxy is as much experience as technique. If I get the time I will post a video of how to epoxy a fly which maybe easier to understand.
Trout Flies
If you epoxy thorax covers you will need to apply with a dubbing needle in small amounts and build the epoxy in layers. Whilst applying you will need to keep the fly as horizontal as possible in the vice and apply the epoxy in much smaller amounts that you need. Leave at least 10 minutes to dry before applying the next layer.
For epoxy buzzers you will have to once again apply a very thin coat and rotate the fly in the vice continually until the epoxy hardens. Personally I would not bother with epoxy buzzers but rather apply 3 coats of liquid glass or sally hansons hard as nails as this will give you the same finish without the grief.
Saltwater Flies
If you apply epoxy to a body of a saltwater fly such as a needle fish but do not want the epoxy to say go into the tail you need to start with the fly as horizontal as possible in the vice. Mix the epoxy and apply a thin layer to the body. I find plastic coffee stirrers that you will get in most fast food outlets the best as it applies the epoxy flatly. Where the body of the fly meets the tail leave a gap of a couple of millimetres to give the epoxy room to move. Again continually rotate the fly until dry.
General Tips
The hardest thing with epoxy to master is that you have to work quickly and sparingly. The slower you work the more likely that the epoxy will start to drip and once that starts it is better to just bin the fly and start again. You will need to rotate the fly continually whilst applying the epoxy to reduce the chance of dripping and until the fly dries. If you are going to do a few epoxy flies buy a stonefly dryer. As soon as the epoxy has been applied to the body place the fly straight onto the dryer and the rotating action will help give an even coat. Leave the fly in the dryer for at least half an hour as if you touch epoxy and it’s not fully set the fly is ruined. When mixing the epoxy make sure that both parts are fully mixed and try not to put bubbles into the epoxy. You can reduce the chance of bubbles by not moving the stirrer from the mixing paper. Lastly I also give all epoxy flies a coat of liquid glass as this prolongs the life of the fly as epoxy will yellow over time, the liquid glass helps stop this and gives a smoother finish.
Finally it is quite difficult to explain in words as epoxy is as much experience as technique. If I get the time I will post a video of how to epoxy a fly which maybe easier to understand.
__________________
Tight Lines - Steve
http://www.cudafly.co.uk
http://www.cudafly.com
http://www.barracudaguiding.co.uk
Telephone 01516653371
Tight Lines - Steve
http://www.cudafly.co.uk
http://www.cudafly.com
http://www.barracudaguiding.co.uk
Telephone 01516653371
